Sun, sand and solace

A chance detour leads Soma Basu to a memorial and a balmy day at the
beach at Kundakal
Rameswaram is a pucca holy town swamped bypilgrims round the year.
There are numerous temples that dot the coastline that make it even
more popular. I leave Madurai with warningsthat the beaches in
Rameswaram are dirty, with no activities or adventure tourism to speak
of. I hope the waves, the wind and the sand will make it worth my
while. After all it is flanked by the Indian Ocean and the Bay of
Bengal. It has to be an inspiring experience.
It turns out to be just that, and I almost miss it.
Next to the town's check-post, beside a huge flexboard, is a small —
and almost invisible — board which says 'Vivekananda Memorial'. I
decide to investigate. After aboutthree kilometres down a narrow
winding path, I spot a brightly painted building in redand orange
standing tall, right on the goldenbeach. The liquid blue ocean is in
the background and all I hear is the lap of waves. It instantly feels
good. This is the villageof Kundakal.
An old man sits alone on a wooden bench and waves me inside the
memorial, after selling me a five rupee ticket. Inside the high
ceiling hall is a tall bronze statue of SwamiVivekananda and on the
walls are stories from his life. The village and this memorial are
significant as it is here that Vivekananda entered India after
addressing the World Religious Parliament at Chicago. The tour of the
memorial does not take more than 15 minutes, even if you are
meticulous and go about it in a thorough way. It is a good feeling to
pay homage to Vivekananda. Outside, a feast awaits the senses.
The sea creates a spontaneous sense of peace. The memorial and the
pervading agarbatti fragrance around this unexploredand unrecognised
stretch of sea line creates an almost spiritual ambience. Thebeach is
clean and the water a lovely blue. It isnot difficult to spend the
entire day here in solitude, watching the endless dance of the waves
against the shore. A huddle of fishing boats bob silently nearby. Two
tiny islands in the distance complete the scenic backdrop. The sand
feels soft as powdered sugar underfoot.
The old man from the memorial reappears and explains how the sea is
always calm here and home to a variety of coral reefs, marine algae,
sea cucumbers, starfish, sponges and crabs. May be that is why a small
marine museum has been constructed next to the memorial. It is
scheduled for inauguration next month.
As the sun comes down,seagulls swoop down. The colour of the
waterdarkens and there is a spectacular sunset. I have no regrets
about not making it all the way to Rameswaram. The unplanned detour to
Kundakal was perfect. I return home humming Led Zeppelin's 'Down by
the Seaside…'
Getting there
Rameswaram is well connected by road, air and train. The nearest
airport is Madurai, 174 km.
Where to stay
There are several low budget hotels in Rameswaram town